Fashion History: Bell Bottoms, From the Ship Deck to the Dance Floor
- annaemberson22
- Aug 19
- 5 min read
Bell bottoms are a style of pants that are typically fitted at the waist and hips, with a straight or wide leg fit to the knee. At the knee, the pants flare out, creating a wide leg opening that looks similar to a bell, thus naming the fit “bell bottoms.” In addition to their exaggerated flare shape, bell bottoms are typically longer than regular trousers, often touching the floor. The hem circumference can sometimes be as large as 26” Bell bottoms were the dominant style of pants in the 1960s and 1970s, and were popularized as a symbol of counterculture, second wave feminism, and disco culture. Although the style faded out of mainstream fashion, bell bottoms continue to be worn as a nostalgic nod to the 1960s and 1970s, and they still hold as a symbol of rebellion for the mainstream.
Bell bottoms were first introduced in 1817 as a part of the Navy uniform. Instead of a classic straight leg fit, the Navy opted for a more flared look, because they were easy for sailors to roll up over the knee for cleaning the deck, so they could protect the material. Also, the bell shape made the pants easy to remove over shoes if they fell overboard, and the wool material allowed the pants to double as a floatation device. In 1901, the Navy changed their fabric of the uniform to denim, thus inventing the iconic bell bottom jeans. Although the Navy eventually changed their uniform pants to a straight fit, the bell bottoms survived, ultimately having a lasting impact on western society through the hippie movement, female liberation, and disco culture.
The 1960s and 1970s saw the impacts of a youthful clientele pushing the norms of fashion through Youthquake, as well as the rise of the hippies, who rejected mainstream ideas altogether. These movements were a result of a period of impactful social change surrounding second wave feminism, the civil rights movement, and the beginning of the environmental movement. Counterculture, also known as the Hippie Movement, was an anti-establishment political movement that began in the late 1960s and led youth in the western world to adopt alternative lifestyles based on principles of creative expression, self sufficiency, and social activism. Hippies in the 1960s believed that Capitalism turned people into consumers who felt the need to continually buy new material goods, including clothing, even if their old ones weren't worn out. Hippies rejected society’s consumerist approach to fashion in a counterculture movement known as Youthquake. It was then that vintage and secondhand fashion began being practiced on a large scale, with progressive Baby Boomers shopping at thrift stores and Navy surplus stores, where they discovered bell bottom jeans. Many hippies up-cycled their bell bottoms, by adding applique flowers and embroidery out of personal expression and protest against the war. By the late 1960s bell bottoms became one of the biggest sartorial symbols of the hippie movement, alongside floral patterned shirts, tie dye, and prairie dresses. It was then that designers like Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt began to incorporate the trend into their collections, and bell bottom jeans became a closet staple.
The counterculture movement helped to reinforce the second wave feminist movement of the 1960s and 1970s. The second wave feminist movement marked a significant shift in gender equality, and the movement was focused on sexuality, reproductive rights, and workplace discrimination.Whereas the initial feminist movement of the 1920s was predominantly represented by cis-gendered, straight, white women, the second wave movement of the 1960s and 1970s included women of color and women from developing countries. One of the major achievements of the movement was passing the Equal Rights Amendment to the Constitution in 1972, which prohibited gender discrimination, and ensured equal rights regardless of sex. The Equal Rights Amendment enabled women to gain more autonomy and break barriers in the workplace. As a result, more women entered the workforce in the 1970s, and by the end of the decade , more women were employed than ever before, with over 60% of women holding jobs outside the home. As women entered male-dominated workplaces, they recognized that fashion could be used as a political tool. They were often expected to play passive roles, and found themselves dismissed when wearing dresses and skirts, leading feminists to encourage women to dress in the “3 P’s” of men’s fashion: pants, pinstripes, and pockets. Since bell bottoms were widely popular in men's fashion during the 1970s, bell bottoms became the first style of pants that women universally wore. This leaves them to forever be a symbol of female liberation and equality in the workplace.
In the late 1960s, the first disco nightclubs originated as underground clubs in New York City. Disco was originally popular amongst black, hispanic, and queer By the late 1970s, disco dominated the music scene, fashion trends, and pop culture. In 1977, Studio 54, an infamous nightclub opened up in New York City’s theater district, and drew in A-list celebrities and performers from around the world. Studio 54’s fashion was particularly stunning, with attendees wearing bell bottoms, exaggerated collars, and shiny, sequined fabrics. That same year, the hit film Saturday Night Fever was released, which followed character Tony Manero (John Travolta) at his local Brooklyn disco club. Every weekend, he would show up to the club in his bell bottoms and dagger shirts and dance the night away. Eventually, bell bottoms became synonymous with disco, and many people’s first association with bell bottom pants is the iconic Saturday Night Fever poster, showing John Travolta doing the hustle in a pair of bell bottoms.
By the 1980s, as the punk scene was growing, disco started going out of fashion and bell bottoms popularity faded as well. Skinny jeans and tapered-fit pants became the popular style of pants. Although short lived, the disco era majorly influenced the music industry, and its unofficial uniform of bell bottoms had a lasting impact on fashion forever.
For many years, bell bottoms were seen as a tacky, dated staple of decades past, but they’ve made a surprising comeback in the last few years. Today, flare jeans, bell bottoms, and disco culture are returning to the mainstream.
This craze is partly due to the fashion trend cycle, where styles resurface every 20 years. The late 1990s and early 2000s saw a revival of flared jeans, halter tops, and tie-front blouses that were once popular in the 1970s. Today, as we’re seeing a resurgence of fashion trends from the late 1990s and early 2000s, we’re also seeing a comeback of the trends first established in the 1970s, including bell bottoms. After appearing on several designers’ spring/summer 2023 runways, bell bottoms began matriculating into retail stores, and every major brand has their own take on the iconic trend. Although it’s impossible to predict the future of fashion, it’s hopeful that bell bottoms will continue to represent such pivotal moments in the 20th century, and will have a lasting impact on fashion.